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Pre Inspection Tips for
Sellers
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Obviously, the better condition your property is in the better
the chances you will receive the full asking price and
the faster the property will sell. Keep in mind that
it is almost always more cost effective to make needed repairs
before the property is inspected. However, beware of
quick fixes and cosmetic patches. These will add nothing
to the value of the property and could actually cause a liability
problem after the sale. An experienced property inspector
will most likely detect purely cosmetic repairs and will recognize
them as attempts to mask deficiencies.
It is important therefore that any repairs be done in a workmanlike
manner. If the repairs require local permits, make certain
they are obtained. This will not only avoid conflict
with the local building authority, but it will help assure
that the contractor does the work to code specifications.
There are a number of common home maintenance items that typically
appear as items in need of repair on an inspector’s final
report. The impression that the property has been poorly
maintained can be avoided by making sure these item are addressed
before the property is inspected. Many of these maintenance
items can be repaired at little or no cost.
Following is a list of commonly found problems that sellers
should address before a prospective buyer gets a property
condition inspection.
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1.
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Lower high plant beds or grading around the house to assure
that the siding is not in contact with soil. Ideally,
there should be several inches of exposed perimeter grade
beam on slab-on-grade foundations. If the house is up
on piers, make sure the crawlspace is evenly graded and that
water is not allowed to puddle or pond under the house.
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2.
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Make
sure all exterior paint is in good condition. If needed,
repaint the exterior being sure to replace any rotted wood
first. (Don't skimp on the prep work...remove peeling
paint and re-caulk as needed.) |
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| 3.
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Clean
out gutters and area drains. Also remove any debris
that might be present on the roof. |
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| 4. |
Make
sure that all water is diverted away from the foundation at
gutter downspouts and that the grade slopes away from the
structure. Add fill if needed but be sure to maintain
some slab exposure above the grade. |
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| 5. |
Fill
in any low areas or holes in the yard that allow standing
water. |
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| 6. |
Trim
back tree and shrub limbs that are close to the roof, siding,
or chimney. |
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| 7. |
Secure
any loose siding or trim and point up any cracks in the brick
motor joints. |
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| 8. |
Seal
any and all water penetration leaks in the structure that
can be found around door and window frames, chimneys, flashings
and skylights. If the caulking around windows and door
frames is worn, pull the old caulk out and re-caulk the area.
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| 9. |
Have
the fireplace cleaned and checked for problems like leaking
mortar caps, dampers that do not function, or damage within
the firebox. Make sure there is a spark arrester and
rain cap installed on the chimney outlet. |
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| 10. |
Replace
any broken or cracked window panes and glaze beads.
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| 11. |
Make
sure that all windows and doors function smoothly and latch/lock
properly. |
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| 12. |
Assure
that all light fixtures have functioning bulbs and that globe
covers are present where needed. |
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| 13. |
Test
all GFCI devices at the test button. Replace any that
fail to trip and reset properly. |
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| 14. |
Test
the function of all light switches and electrical outlets.
Make any needed repairs. All such devices should have
cover plates installed and should not be loose. |
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| 15. |
Insure
that smoke detectors are present and functional. There
should be a detector within each sleeping area and in adjoining
hallways. There should also be at least one detector
on each level of the structure. |
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| 16. |
Repair any leaking plumbing fixtures
at sinks, lavatories, toilets, tubs, showers, and outdoor
spigots. Be sure your outdoor faucets have anti-siphon
devices installed.
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| 17. |
Assure the proper function of all
drain stoppers and repair any slow running drains at sinks,
bathtubs, and showers.
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| 18. |
Check for and repair any visible
plumbing leaks in supply or drain piping under cabinets, and
in basements, crawl spaces, and attic areas.
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| 19. |
Make
any needed grout or caulk repairs on the tilework around tubs
and shower enclosures. |
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| 20. |
Assure
that toilets are secured at the floor and that the seat and
lid assemblies are tight. Replace any worn flap valves
in the tank. The flange bolts should be properly capped
and the toilet sealed at floor level with caulking.
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| 21. |
Operate all built-in appliances
and devices such as stoves, ovens, microwaves, garbage disposals,
dishwashers, hood vents, bathroom exhaust fans and heaters.
All should be functional. Replace any missing or worn
knobs and buttons.
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| 22. |
Make
sure all exhaust vents from hoods, bathrooms fans, and clothes
dryers vent to outside air and not into basements, attic spaces,
or crawlspaces. |
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| 23. |
Replace
filters in the HVAC system and have equipment cleaned and
serviced. Ask your HVAC contractor about any code violations
or problems with the installation that might be brought up
in an inspection. |
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| 24. |
Test
any overhead garage doors and automatic operators for proper
operation. If either need attention its best to have
the work done professionally as working with heavy overhead
doors and powerful door springs can be hazardous. |
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| 25. |
Have the water heater checked by
a qualified plumber and correct any safety or code issues.
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The inspector will deliver a much smaller final report to
the buyer if the above items are taken care of before the
inspection takes place. That thin report goes a long
way toward putting the buyer's mind at ease and will help
your sale go through quickly and smoothly.
Good luck with the sale of your home and don't forget to have
the new house you're buying professionally inspected!
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